Step By Step:
A Novice’s
Guide to Drywall
By Richard Walker
Dr. O’Donnell
Essay 3 – Expository
Writing
July 7, 2005
Richard
Walker is currently enrolled as a senior at
I have always been slightly amazed at how
difficult people think hanging drywall is. While is it not easy, it is not
impossible, especially if you have the proper tools and instructions. In this
guide, I hope to explain in layman’s terms the simplest way of finishing a
professional-looking drywall job.
The Proper Equipment
Among the most important things
needed for a drywall job are the correct tools. Remember, you do not need to
purchase every tool listed in this guide. There are rental stores that will be
happy to supply you with any equipment that you’re lacking.
Tools are essential for a
professional-looking job. They will leave your drywall nice and neat, and will
make your life easier as well. For a good drywall job, you will need the
following: a screw gun, hammer, keyhole saw, large caulking gun, tool belt (so
that you can easily keep track of screwdrivers and things), a Phillip’s
screwdriver, chalk-line and chalk, floor jack, 48”/56” t-square, utility knife
with extra blades, pencils, a small carpenter’s square, and at least 100 feet
of extension cords. (See appendix)
If you are doing drywall alone, you
will also need to rent what is called a “rock lift”. This is used to hold
sheetrock up on the ceilings and upper walls while it is being installed. Like
the rest of the tools listed here, you can find one of these at an equipment
rental store.
Once you have all the
tools necessary to start your job, you’ll need to figure out how much sheetrock
you’re going to need. The easiest way to do this is to take simple room
measurements and submit them to your local supplier. Since it’s their business
to deal in building supplies, they will know exactly how much sheetrock you
need.
Alternately, you can figure out on
your own how much you’ll need. To do this, measure each wall independently,
length by width. The ceiling measurements can be taken by measuring the floors.
When you’ve finished measuring, take the footage from each measurement and
combine it together. Sheetrock comes in 4x8, 4x10, and 4x12 foot lengths. The
4x8 equals 32 square feet; the 4x10 equals 40 square feet, etc. Divide the
total square feet of the room by the square feet of the size of the sheetrock
you’re going to purchase. This will tell you approximately how many sheets you
will need. For example, 170 sq. ft. (the size of the room) divided by 32 sq.
ft. (the size of the sheetrock – 4x8) equals 6. A room 170 square feet in size
would require approx. 6 sheets of sheetrock.
Remember when ordering your
sheetrock that it comes in various thicknesses (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 – all
the way up to an inch in thickness) and that there are various types as well.
Depending on application, most sheetrock used is ½ inch thick. In Appendix B of
this guide, you will find a detailed chart for the various ratings and usages
of sheetrock.
Now that you have the sheetrock that
you’ll need, you can get the last of your supplies – the screws, nails, glue,
joint compound and tape – that you will need when you hang the sheetrock. These
supplies can usually be purchased in any hardware store. Remember, when you’re
buying supplies to err on the side of caution – if you’re unsure of how much
you’ll need, buy more. This will save you a lot of trips out to the store. You
will need one large tube of glue – any construction adhesive – for each wall,
depending on the size. For large surfaces, buy two tubes of adhesive per wall.
Nails and screws can also be purchased at your local hardware store. You will
need ½ pound of nails/screws 
for every 5 sheets of
rock. They need to be at least 1 ¼ inch long for a ½ inch thickness of
sheetrock. There are several types of joint compound used in sealing joints and
corner bead, such as light-weight, quick-setting and regular.
Hanging the Sheetrock
Now that you’ve collected all your
tools and bought all the supplies you will need, it’s time to start hanging the
sheetrock. One of the first things you must do is check the studs. Look for
nails that are not completely driven in and any other foreign objects that
might hinder the application of the sheetrock. Nails tend to hold the sheets
out from the studs, and can break any sheets that hit them while they’re being
hung. Below is a check-list of the things you need to do before hanging the
sheetrock.
ü
Check
for objects protruding from the studs. Remove or hammer in.
ü
Mark
all electrical outlets with a marker on the floor directly below the outlet.
ü
Make
sure all wires and plumbing pipes are protected from screws and nails being
used to fasten the sheet rock. If you are using a roto-zip to cut out the
outlets, you MUST push the wires completely to the rear of the box.
ü
Clear
all debris from the work area or some may become trapped behind the board.
Now that you’ve completed your checklist, you
can begin actually hanging the sheetrock. Start with the ceiling.
1)
Find the squarest corner of the room to begin layout of the
sheetrock. 
Remember to check the square either by measuring out from
the starting wall 4 feet and taking another measurement or by using a large
carpenter’s square. This will prevent uneven alignment on the joist, where the
end of the sheetrock falls.
2) Measure from the corner,
along the ceiling, to the middle of the nearest joist that coincides to the
longest piece of sheetrock you have. Place nails or screws at least ½ an inch
in from the edge around the perimeter, and at least three screws per stud/joist
in the field (the middle). The second row must butt tight against the first
row, with the first sheet cut back/forward (offset) at least one joist from
where the first row landed. This creates overlapping, and prevents railroading
or aligning of butt joints (where the ends of the two sheets meet), and creates
a stronger ceiling, less prone to cracking.
3) If there is a ceiling
fixture in the ceiling, hang the sheetrock to the closest joist. Then measure
from the end of the sheetrock to the center of the fixture. Measure over from
the previous row to the center as well, record the numbers (two measurements)
somewhere nearby so you can mark them on the next sheet. This will give you a
center mark to use the circle cutter to cut a hole.
4) After all the ceilings
are up, begin on the walls using the same principles as above. There are some
differences. You only need to mark the outlets on the sheets before hanging.
This saves time, and the boxes can be cut out using the roto-zip. DO NOT screw
off the field until all the boxes have been cut out! The roto-zip is fairly
easy to use, just push through the mark on the sheet moving slowly towards the
edge of the box. Once the edge is located, pull the bit out, allowing it to
pass over the edge of the box and reinsert. Then in a counter clockwise
movement cut out the hole and screw off the field. This tool is also handy for
cutting out windows, stairs, holes for plumbing pipes, etc. You may want to
practice using it prior to hanging.
Taping the Joints
Once your sheetrock is hung, you’re
ready to begin taping the joints. To tape the joints, you’ll need the following
tools: ½ inch drill and Paddle, for mixing joint compound, one mud pan, taping
knives – 3”, 5” 6” 8” 10” and 12”, sanding pole/block/100 grit sandpaper.
This is the slowest part of the
project, and is the most important. From here things really matter, as to how
the job will turn out. If you are using fiberglass tape for the joints, then
you must use quick-set compound for the fill coat. Regular compound is not
strong enough and will crack. Fiberglass tape does save a step in the process,
but it is not recommended for use in corners, because the taping knives will
cut it, leaving holes in the corners. Using paper tape solves this problem, and
it can supply a stronger corner in the event that there are gaps due to miss
cuts or uneven walls. These are the steps to use when you begin to finish the
sheet rock:
1) Start by making sure
that all lose and broken sheet rock is removed from the joints. This prevents
bubbling of the tape.
2) Mix tape joint compound
– 1 liter water/ 5 gallon ready-mix; or 1 ½ gallon water/ 1 bag powder mix (mix
only what can be used in the allotted amount of time).
3) 
Apply a generous amount
of mud (compound) to the seams, starting with all the vertical joints. Use a 6”
knife, and use the same technique that you would use if you were icing a cake.
4) 
Apply paper tape
directly over joint, hold the tape with the corner of your pan, while wiping
the tape down tight using moderate pressure. Be careful not to pull out too
much, it will make the tape bubble.
5) The process is the same
for the horizontal joints, as well as the inside corners. If there are holes in
the seams, then you must double-tape the hole, extending tape at least 2 inches
past the hole for stability.
6) Corner bead is hard to
put on, but if there is a place to measure from, use that as a guide to make
alignment marks. Use a chalk line to snap a straight line to follow, 
when nailing on the
bead. Sometimes you can eyeball it and get it straight enough that any small
variances can be fixed by floating the mud.
Now you’re ready to
begin your first fill coating. After all the seams, joints and corners have
been taped; allow the tape to dry thoroughly before laying on the first coat.
This will prevent tape separation (bubbling) from the wall. Using the formula
of 1 cup of water to a 5 gallon bucket of compound, mix water into mix until it
becomes creamy (like cake frosting). Sometimes, when using a power-mixer, air
can be trapped in the mud. To avoid this, mix 3-4 oz of dish soap into the mud.
Fill your pan, as full as you can
comfortably handle, and then using an 8” knife begin filling the joints
starting at the corners, pulling towards the middle. Keep your knife full of
mud, and holding it at a thirty-degree angle, allow the mud to spread evenly
across the seam. Then feather the edges by applying pressure to the outside
corner of the knife, allowing it to run halfway into the joint, pulling the
knife toward you.
Allow the seams to dry before applying mud to the
vertical joints. When doing the vertical seams (joints), you must split the
seam by applying mud to the middle and on both sides about six inches from mud
covering the tape. This will prevent crowing (humping) of the joint. Spot
(cover) all the screws at this time, wiping off all excess mud from the wall,
leaving only the screw covered. Using the same knife, fill the bead, feather
and smooth. Be careful not to pull out too much mud.
When all the mud has dried, use a 10” knife and repeat
the fill coat process. The exception is on the vertical joints. Here you will
fill in only the space between the first coat layers. At this time, you also
must coat one side of corner tape. This is done using either the 5” or 6”
knife. Float and feather the same way as the joints and bead. Allow all the mud
to dry thoroughly. Then you can send everything using 100 grit sandpaper on a
pole. Apply moderate pressure to remove any ridges and lap marks.
It’s time for the grand finale, now!
Here is where you get the final results. When doing the final coat, you need
not leave as much mud as you did in the first two coats. In fact, all that is
needed is a thin coat just to fix scratches, pin holes and so on. Using the 12”
knife, apply the mud in the same fashion, but this time you will pull all the
mud back off leaving only a thin coat. You must cover everything on this coat,
including nails, vertical joints, and the other side of the angles. Allow to dry
thoroughly, then sand using light pressure. Now when using a sanding sponge you
may detail-sand the taped corners, and corner bead. It is recommended that you
shine a light (100 watt max) down the walls while detail sanding. This helps to
locate defects that may show up after painting.
Congratulations! You have now
finished your first drywall job. I hope this guide was helpful, and that you
are happy with the outcome of your project.
Appendage A; Tools
1. Half-inch drill and mixing paddle: for blending compound
2. Swivel-head pole sander with medium-grit sanding screen or drywall
sandpaper: for smoothing first coat of compound
3. Fine-grit sandpaper: for smoothing second and third coats of compound
4. Sanding blocks: for sanding corners
5. Joint compound (regular type shown)
6. Paper tape (shown with belt dispenser)
7. Mud box: for holding small batches of compound and cleaning knives
8. 5-inch drywall knife
9. Rubber mallet and corner clincher (see above)
1. Screw gun: for driving screws
(alternative: variable-speed drill driver with clutch)
2. T-square: for guiding
utility-knife cuts
3. Measuring tape
4. Circle cutter: for scoring paper to
fit around circular ceiling boxes and recessed lights
5. Drywall saw: for cutting and
trimming panels before installation
6. Drywall lifter/
floor jack: for raising lowest sheet on wall
7. Corner bead: for finishing outside
corners
8. Metal-cutting snips: for cutting corner
bead
9. Step ladders and
staging planks: for a place to stand when installing ceiling panels
10. 1 ¼-inch
coarse-thread drywall screws
11. Hammer and 1 ½-inch
drywall nails: for installing corner bead
12. Utility knife: for cutting panels and
smoothing ends
13. Rotary cut-out tool
and bits: for cutting around electrical boxes and windows and doors
Appendage
B; Types of Sheetrock
|
Moisture Resistant Board (MR, WR, Water Resistant,
Tilebacker, Green board, Blue board) - Resists water but is not
waterproof. Can withstand high levels of humidity. Can be finished and
painted or wallpapered. |
|
|
Abuse Resistant - 1/2" and 5/8" panels
have greater resistance to damage. Heavier paper covering and reinforced core
withstands moderate impact. |
|
|
Ceiling Panels - Lighter and stronger than standard
stock. Resists sagging and installs more easily. Can be less expensive. |
|
|
Cement Board (Cementious panel, Durock,
Hardibacker, Wonderboard, Dens-Shield) - Portland cement sandwiched
between layers of polymer coated glass fiber mesh. Offers extra fire and
water resistance. 1/2" and 5/8" sheets. |
|
|
Fire Resistant - 1/2" panels typically rated
to contain fire for 45 minutes. 5/8" panels for 60 minutes. |
|
|
Moisture Resistant Board (MR, WR, Water Resistant, Tile
backer, Green board, Blue board) - Resists water but is not waterproof. Can
withstand high levels of humidity. Can be finished and painted or
wallpapered. |
|
|
Abuse Resistant - 1/2" and 5/8" panels have
greater resistance to damage. Heavier paper covering and reinforced core
withstands moderate impact. |
|
|
Ceiling Panels - Lighter and stronger than standard stock.
Resists sagging and installs more easily. Can be less expensive. |
|
|
Cement Board (Cementious panel, Durock, Hardibacker,
Wonderboard, Dens-Shield) - Portland cement sandwiched between layers of
polymer coated glass fiber mesh. Offers extra fire and water resistance.
1/2" and 5/8" sheets. |
|
|
Fire Resistant - 1/2" panels typically rated to
contain fire for 45 minutes. 5/8" panels for 60 minutes. |
|